Caffe Via d'Oro's New style, menu debut today in Sutter Creek
Friday, March 17, 2006
By Marcia Oxford of the Ledger Dispatch
  
It's official. The new Caffe Via d'Oro opens today, March 17 at 5 p.m. at 36 Main St., Sutter Creek. Dinner reservations are strongly recommended at 267-0535. The eatery's transformation into a sleek and stylish venue suited to the upscale menu is,frankly, astonishing.

Dennis Griffin, owner and developer, his wife Julie, and general manager Bill Bethel, who has an extensive background with San Francisco restaurants, held several pre-opening events for Sutter Creek merchants, inn owners, winemakers and friends. And although hors d'oeuvres were the only means of evaluating the food, response was overwhelmingly positive.

The hors d'oeuvres were a take on the menu, designed by executive chef Jeffrey Briggs. Briggs, previously executive chef for all the restaurants at the former Nut Tree in Vacaville, also operates a catering business out of Sacramento. Julie Hicks is food service manager for the caffe and Bellotti's, both owned by the Griffins. She established her credentials in a parallel capacity at the Jackson Rancheria Casino, Hotel and Conference Center.

The whole point, of course, is the food. Starters include a choice of four salads, French onion soup or soup of the day. Among appetizers are almond-wood grilled jumbo prawns wrapped with basil and prosciutto served with smoked tomato hollandaise. Other choices include clams, mussels and chorizo sausage and naked portabella mushroom.

Entrees, available from $16 to $28, feature several wood-grilled selections: cider brined double-cut pork chop; half chicken; rib eye steak, and mallard duck breast. Pan-seared rainbow trout with leeks, sage and tomato; fish of the day, and braised organic salmon and jumbo prawn constitute the piscine options. The salmon is served with a tangy melange of prosciutto, golden chard and orange cracked black pepper hollandaise. Beef fans might opt for Meyers Ranch short ribs or pan-seared filet. Accompaniments or side orders are as well-conceived as the main dishes and desserts. Among desserts are caramel, apple upside-down cake, orange creme brulee, and Havana torte that melds cinnamon, hazelnut and chocolate sabayone.

Setting the tone for diners is the sophisticated setting. Gone are all vestiges of previous businesses. A lengthy blonde oak bar topped with hammered copper stretches on one side. An extensive banquette, handsome tables and chairs and glazed walls are evidence of an upscale perspective on dining. The effect reveals collaboration between Dennis Griffin and Wonder Faux of Citrus Heights, which also painted the large mural in the dining area. Discreet recessed lighting adds golden luminescence to the mural depicting the pioneer and Native American legacy of the Gold Country.

Briggs administers the state-of-the-art kitchen and also oversees dining at Bellotti's. The caffe also features the wine room, reached via a staircase wending past aged rock walls which once supported the Malatesta building; that brick structure arose beginning in 1862 following a fire that razed the previous structure. The wine room can accommodate private parties of 18 to 20. Another room beyond the kitchen provides private seating for 25 people.

The astounding esthetic conversion and hors d'oeuvres served at one of the pre-opening functions drew raves from attendees.  Sandy Anderson, co-owner with husband Chuck of Eureka Street Inn, heard her friend Cathy Cunha describe the ambience as very classy without being stuffy.  Anderson added her own praise. "I thought the food was excellent. We can hardly wait to recommend guests go there. Dennis has made an exciting and positive contribution to Sutter Creek by restoring some of our wonderful old buildings."

Jerry and Deborah Budrick, who owned the former Caffe Via d'Oro for almost 10 years, shared their responses. "Driving up front and seeing all the lights on and all the people inside was wonderful," Deborah said. "The tables and chairs are beautiful and they did a lot of things we wanted to do, but couldn't." Jerry added, "When we first sold it, I was worried what would happen. Then they just took out everything and made a great transformation. It was nice to see what they've done. We wish them great success."

Dinner is available Wednesday through Sunday from 5 p.m. until closing. Caffe Via d'Oro will begin serving lunch by mid-April; several light versions from the dinner menu as well as soup, salad and sandwiches will be offered.

"I love this," Griffin said during one of the advance events. "This place is for the people of Sutter Creek and the county and for visitors. I hope they all come and get to enjoy this." Bethel added, "I think people will be drawn by the good food. And a lot of people told me this restaurant is like those you find in the city.
 

From InsiderPages.com

By John B.
Great!! I am very happy with the remodel and the menu. The food is excellent. I have been back several times. In an area crying for new dining choices, this is a huge win. Thanks! (5 out of 5 stars rating)

From a Sacramento Bee weblog:

In another culinary change, Caffe Via d'Oro ... has undergone a transformation with appetizers like grilled quail with pomegranate molasses and oysters on the half shell, and entrees such as grilled duck breast with a nectarine "chili" chutney and braised chicken with applewood-smoked bacon.While the weather was balmy in Sutter Creek this weekend, there was just enough suggestion of fall in the golden light that I felt obligated to resume my cool-weather quest for the perfect rib-eye steak. Not sure Caffe Via d'Oro's massive version was perfect, but I couldn't find any flaws in the succulent and juicy steak ($24). It was one massive prime-grade cut, grilled precisely as requested (medium rare). Thin, crispy fried onion rings topped the dark and crusty beef, while an even sweeter side of barbecued beans added to the overall brawn of the plate. This is just the sort of entree for which the robust red wines of the foothills are made, and the wine list is loaded with them.